Jaiden rVa James by Tim Blanks

And it wouldn’t be London if there wasn’t at least one intensely polarizing presentation. Rasharn d’Vera Agymang and Jaiden James are buoyant twenty some things who make clothes that are anything but upbeat. With Mad Max apocalypse and Mapplethorpe’s X Portfolio in mind, they produced a collection of fetish leathers that was numbingly literal.

Vice Magazine's DARYOUSH HAJ-NAJAFI

All the fashion dudes were saying Jaiden rVa James are going to be massive because they work really hard and they’ve just put together a pretty good magazine, RE-BEL.

JAIDEN rVa JAMES by Tank

The boundary between what is deemed male and female is always something to be explored in contemporary fashion. Comme des Garcons Homme Plus have carried kilt skirts for a few seasons now and Rick Owens has created his iconic heeled wedge boots for men.

The Jaiden rVa James collection took this notion to an extreme; bulky models dressed entirely in leather gimp suits and wearing 4” thigh-high heeled boots. Leather was the only fabric used and although this represented the idea of sexual repression and bleakness, it would have been interesting to see how the duo would have used a less obvious fabric. The head masks complete with ball gags were fairly spectacular, however against all of the leather pieces they became overshadowed. The Jaiden rVa James show, was a clear talking point of the Menswear shows and the collection was without doubt a show stopper.