The way I see it is that all the men’s designers have to prove to the consumers that they need these clothes. There must be a compelling reason, if your standards are high and your budget — well, isn’t budging. Givenchy? Not a believable vision. Galliano? Been there, Jack Sparrow. Dior Homme? Wasn’t this a cool label once? Lanvin? Seductive and romantic, the clear fashionista favorite. Number (N)ine? Crazy delightful, worth it if you have $2,500 plus to spend for one of the Flemish-colored jackets. Saint Laurent? Drab and unimaginative. Rick Owens? Original but I don’t want to know what the wearer’s hobbies are. Raf Simons? The fit is the compelling reason, nothing more, nothing less. Comme des Garçons? A good season for eclectic pieces, including the leopard pumps. Dunhill? Pointless things done to clothes, with the formality of a boutique hotel uniform.”
BY CATHY HORN
There is a reason why people like Charlie Porter & Tim Blanks exists and the paragraph above is a clear example. There are some writers who can review both women's & menswear and some that clearly can't or simply can't be bothered to review the men's show fully, thus reducing basically all of Paris mens shows into a paragraph & simplifying each into less than a sentence for each show.
I do agree on some levels but not on most obviously i cannot say i was blessed to have gone to the shows and seen them up close, but come on Cathy your dismissing half of Menswear. Will people not give Kim Jones a break to me he made clothes totally of the times and presented a collection full of desirable and wearable pieces,Prior to this Dunhill was a dusty label with nothing to excite nor bore. his vision was that of a realist and we all know in menswear surrealism may excite but it's the former that sells. Dior i agree fully every season i try hard to like it, don't get me wrong KVA has done some things like the multi pleated loose trousers he refuses to let go of, in many ways reminiscent of Christian Dior's multi pleated dresses in Dior's early days. Although this season the pleats where removed for more of a flat front. Looking more like loose jogging pants then trousers. There was some interesting detail from the swirls on the lapels of a coat,to SOME of the angular cuts but The Funnel necks on soft fabric, Henry Holland esque t-shirts, Play with proportion and fit all felt like too many things mish mashed into one and instead of looking elegant like diors glory days looked clumsy and too much like teenage attire, i still do stand by that the butterfly collection of last year was one of the best for KVA's dior if only he remained on that path. Sad thing is i like his label more then dior. Givenchy i liked it better the first round.
But who i am i? just an inexperienced blogger and one person in the midst of billions. One persons opinion don't matter at the end of the day it's the sales that do. xoxoxo