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Sunday, 17 March 2013

The New New

The new new when will there be the newness that fashion once had when now it seems fashion is so derivative, stale, stiff and boring in my sense the new new is hardly embraced and the new that is embraced has studied the old so much that it is the old with a new name, its routine and repetitive yet prizes itself on renewal every 6 month but is it really new or just classic shapes reinterpreted by houses that gain a signature style and that is the style the clothes take on and this is how businesses are created and customers consume. The Magazines that once question, dissected and discussed fashion can't speak their minds if they wanted to as they are scared of upsetting and ads being pulled. Editors sit on their thrones for too long and stylists who's tired eyes are now strained and who use the same photographs who use the same models over and over and over. There is still hope in the inbetweeners who do it for the name fame and money but still have something if not new somewhat refreshing and I believe that is where the industry is at Today the 80's had I-D the 90's had Dazed and it seems nothing really has emerged in the 00's that can be on the same level of those two just mentioned I mean we have Love which is supposed to be a style bible yet was born from the fact Katie Grand is a powerhouse that consults for powerhouses and Conde Nast is also a powehouser that has created something not daring but in a sense different. Which is a sign for where the industry is at when a magazine replicates the formula set by those who once innovated.

The designers or mostly the main innovators have gone Mcqueen is dead, Galliano vanquished, Ghesquire quit three very powerful voices that used to shout and there echo be heard throughout and Nicola Formechetti who worked his way up in Dazed to create some of the most memorable covers and images in recent fashion representing not only London but unique and interesting fashion spreads featuring a range of up and coming designers shot by the new-guard that now shoots Dolce ads and Elle Spreads being able to move onto Vogue Homme Japan where he once again created a formula that balanced avant-garde with commercial elements another Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld who was the head of one the most interesting of Vogues stepped down from her role leaving another gap in the industry she now has a presence at her own magazine and at Harper's but its not really the same and will it ever be probably not. It leaves one to question will fashion ever be the same when the most creative of clothes vehicles couture is dying or should I say slowing down to a pace where catwalks are no longer needed (hello Givenchy).

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